Cucumis - Bur Gourd, Casaba Melon, Crenshaw Melon, Cucumber, Gooseberry Gourd, Honeydew Melon, Melon, Muskmelon

DESCRIPTION: Cucumis is a large group comprised of Melons and Cucumbers. They are climbing plants found wild in Asia. Just below are some descriptions of the Cucumber family (cucurbitaceae); following will be descriptions of Melons

Cucumber (C. sativus) - The Cucumber has been an article of food for hundreds of years. It is a native of southwestern Asia. Cucumbers grow on sprawling, medium length vines clothed with rough, dark green, 3 pointed leaves, which are fuzzy. All female (gynoecious) varieties have been developed that give greater yields, as do self-fertile (parthenocarpic) varieties that produce fruit without pollination, producing seedless cucumbers. There are three different types of Cucumber. The first is the greenhouse or English forcing type, which isn't suitable for outdoor cultivation because of its slow growth. The fruit is long and it has a few black spines that will disappear as the fruits mature. It is usually used for slicing. The second type is grown in gardens. Some kinds have black spines while others have white spines protruding from warts when the fruit is young. The white-spined varieties are more popular. The second type matures in 55 to 60 days and the fruits may be used for pickling or slicing. The third type is also grown outside; they are the pickling varieties, which (with the exception of Gherkin, which belongs in this group) may also be used for salads. The Gherkin, C.anguria, also commonly known as Gooseberry Gourd and Bur Gourd, is the true old-time Gherkin, but has been replaced by young Cucumber imposters. The long vines are covered with deeply 3-lobed leaves that distinguish the plants from Melons and Cucumbers. They produce fruits, 2 inches long, that are covered with soft spines and are valuable only for pickles.

The next three descriptions are relatives of the Cucumber family and are divided into many groups, two of which are commonly cultivated. The Reticulatus Group, or netted Melons, includes Persian Melons and Muskmelons. (Although Muskmelons are often called Cantaloupes, the true Cantaloupe belongs to the Cantalupensis Group.) The Inodorus Group, or winter Melons, includes Casabas, Crenshaws and Honeydews. Melons grow on trailing or climbing, soft, hairy vines. They are warm-temperate annuals.

Casaba Melon (C. melo)- This Melon belongs to the Inodorus Group. They are large Melons that taper off towards the stem. They may weigh from 4 to 8 pounds. The rind is yellow with ridges or ribs and the flesh is greenish. Like other Melons of this group (ie. Pink fleshed Crenshaws and Honeydews), this one is a long season, late maturing Melon of very high quality. It is best when dead ripe but not soggy.

Crenshaw Melon (C. melo)- This Melon belongs to the Inodorus Group. They are large, oval and smooth, with dark green rinds that turn yellowish green when ripe. Older varieties may have greenish colored flesh; newer hybrids are salmon-pink.

Honeydew Melon (C. melo) - A Melon belonging to the Inodorus Group, Honeydews are silvery white, smooth and round. They usually have green or white flesh. New varieties may have orange or pink tinged flesh. They average from 2 to 4 pounds.

Muskmelon (C. melo) - This Melon belongs to the Reticulatus Group as does the many varieties listed in catalogues and seed displays as Muskmelons, Melons, or Cantaloupes. The Melons come in an assortment of shapes including round, oval, boat-shaped, or banana-shaped and they may be from 1 to 4 pounds. The rinds may be ribbed, warted, netted with cordlike veins, or nearly smooth. Older varieties usually have pronounced ribs from stem end to blossom end, while modern kinds developed for shipping have none. At maturity, the rind may be whitish green, cream, yellowish, pink-tinted, or dark green. The flesh may be white, greenish, orange, or pink stained. Persian Melons are large, dark green varieties that mature late. The seed cavities in modern varieties are no larger than an ice cream scoop, but are bigger than a coffee mug in the old, large, open-pollinated varieties. The flavors range from barely acceptable to extremely sweet and musky. This isn't always because of the variety. An overabundance of water in the soil during the 3 weeks prior to maturity gives Melons a flavorless, watery taste.

POTTING:

Cucumber - The culture of all outdoor Cucumbers is the same. The home gardener should remember that this crop is vulnerable to several diseases and pests; it requires precautionary measures. Weeds harbor insects and disease, therefore, they must always be removed immediately. Some gardeners use special Aster cloth to cover the plants believing this to be a protection from Cucumber beetles, Squash bugs and aphids. If this is done, it must be removed once in a while to get rid of weeds. During dry weather, Cucumbers need plenty of water and dilute liquid fertilizer should be applied weekly, beginning when the first Cucumbers are ready to be picked. Cucumbers need good ventilation and full sun. From the central states northward, use black plastic mulch to help speed maturity. To maximize production, plant in raised beds (except in deep sand) with plenty of manure worked into the soil. Plants should be at least 12 inches apart. In areas with 5 or more warm growing months, a second crop can be planted after midsummer and picked before frost. Gynoecious (all female) varieties must be planted with a few seeds of a standard variety to provide a few male flowers so pollination can occur. Parthenocarpic (seedless) varieties must be separated to avoid pollination, since the idea is to produce seedless fruits. Cucumbers that are grown indoors should have a minimum winter temperature of 60 degrees. A span-roof greenhouse with a bed on each side is the best. Slates are laid close over hot water pipes and on these the beds are made up. Four to six inches of drainage material, broken bricks or large clinkers being put down first. Hot water pipes are advantageous, though, not required. A 3-inch layer of coarse fibrous loam is placed on top of this and then a 6- to 9-inch deep layer of rich soil that has had generous amounts of organic matter and a dusting of superphosphate mixed in. Cone-shaped mounds are made 6 inches deep and 1½ to 2 feet apart and on these the plants are set out, one to each mound. Each plant is attached to a cane and wires are stretched horizontally along the greenhouse, 9 inches apart and 12-14 inches away from the glass. As the leader and side shoots grow, they are tied to the wires. The main growth is allowed to reach the apex of the greenhouse before stopping, but all side growths are removed below the bottom wire and the growing points of all other side growths are pinched out at the second leaf. If further side shoots form, they are stopped at the first leaf. All shoots, for which there is room, are tied to the wires; all others are removed, as are the male flowers as soon as they appear. Cucumbers are surface rooting and fresh compost is added to the mounds and the bed when the roots appear through the soil. Good ventilation is given during warm weather and the plants are sprayed twice a day with tepid water. They need a warm, humid atmosphere constantly and the ventilators should be closed early in the afternoon. Plants that are set out during the last week in May in a cold greenhouse and given similar treatment to those in a heated greenhouse will produce fruits in late summer and early autumn. Cucumbers should be picked before they reached full size, when they begin to fade or turn yellow. Overly ripe fruits have tough seeds and aren't as tasty.

Crenshaw Melon, Muskmelon, Honeydew Melon, & Casaba Melon - Melons need excellent drainage, so grow them on raised beds that are 5 to 6 feet wide. The top of the bed should slope down from the highest point to drain away heavy rains that might collect and rot the fruit. Mulch the beds with black plastic; in hot climates, use straw or dried lawn clippings over newspapers or cardboard. To increase yield, install drip or trickle irrigation under the mulch. Spun-bonded row covers or large squares of aluminum foil with keep away beetles that carry a lethal bacterial wilt. Where summers are 5 months are shorter, use clear plastic mulch with Casaba Melons. This traps more heat than black plastic and causes the vines to grow thickly and shade out weeds. Plant in a sunny corner or by a heat-reflecting wall. Pick some Melons before they're completely ripe and bring inside to finish ripening. Then if heavy rains ruin your chances of vine-ripened fruit, you will not have lost all of them. Leave 2 to 3 inches of stem when picking and handle carefully. Don't wash them until just before use. Wiggle the stem where it connects to the stem. If it comes off easily, leaving a disk shaped concavity, it is at "full-slip" stage and is ready to pick and eat. Persian Melons turn color slightly and develop a strong melon scent, most noticeable at the blossom end. Their stems don't "slip" and must be clipped to leave a 2-inch stub. If after picking, you can't detect a strong perfume, let fruit ripen indoors for a few days.

PROPAGATION:

Cucumber - Cucumbers are tender and seeds should not be sown outdoors until the soil is fairly warm. Seeds remain good for several years if stored in a dry place that is moderately warm. If they are sown in cold soil, they will immediately rot. They should be planted 7 to 10 days after the frost-free date for your area. Hotcaps set over the seeds serve as little greenhouses. They advance germination and help to guard against pests. To hasten the crop, sow indoors in containers in the greenhouse, window garden or cold frame four weeks before they are to be set outside. Don't start them any earlier because they will most likely outgrow their containers before it is time for them to be set outside. When they're planted directly outside, hills should be made, 4-5 feet apart, and the soil should be very rich by mixing in liberal quantities of organic matter and a dusting of superphosphate. Three seeds should be planted to each hill, or six to each and when they sprout, the three weakest are removed when the first true leaves show. The seeds should be covered ½ inch deep. Seeds can be sown in a greenhouse during the first week in September and the treatment is the same as described. Other sowings may be made during October and November to provide a succession of fruits during the winter.

Melons - Direct-seeding works best except in climates with short, cool summers. Where this is the case, start seeds indoors, 3 to 4 weeks before the first frost-free date and transplant 2 to 3 weeks after the average frost-free date. The seedlings should be thinned or transplants should be set a foot apart. Cover the seedlings or transplants with bottomless plastic jugs to protect early growth from frost and to help fruits mature before pickleworm invasions. Remove caps from jugs to create a chimney that keeps contained air from becoming too hot, but protects plants from frost exposure.

VARIETIES:

Cucumbers - Gynoecious varieties are indicated w/ GY. Short, blocky picklers: Wisconsin SMR 58, Pioneer GY, Lucky Strike GY, Liberty (AAS). Long, straight slicers: Dublin GY (early), Raider GY, Victory GY (AAS), Poinsett, Early Triumph, Slicemaster GY. Nonbitter slicers: Sweet Slice, Burpless, Peppi, Marketmore 80, Amira, Park's Burpless Bush, Euro-American Hybrid. Parthenocarpic garden varieties: Sweet Success (AAS), County Fair. Bush types (all slicers except as noted): Bush Crop, Spacemaster, Patio Pick, Bush Whopper, Bush Champion, Bush Pickle (pickler). Novelties: Lemon (lemon shaped), China, Vert de Massy (for cornichons), Armenian.

Casabas, Crenshaws and Honeydews were once restricted to the dry West and Southwest because they were susceptible to mildew disease and rotted after summer rains; now, humidity-tolerant hybrids are available.

Casabas - Look through catalogues for seeds.

Crenshaw Melon - Burpee Early Hybrid, Honeyshaw.

Honeydew Melon - Venus Hybrid, Kazakh, Tam Dew, Honeygrow, Bush Star Hybrid.

Muskmelon - When selecting Melons, look for varieties that resist mildew and fusarium wilt. Early: Sweet 'n' Early, Sweetheart, Scoop, Sweet Granite, Earlisweet. Midseason: Ambrosia, Burpee Hybrid, Gurney's Giant, Star Headliner, Superstar, Canada Gem. Bush or short vine types: Minnesota Midget, Short 'n' Sweet, Bush Star. European gourmet types: Charentais, Haogen, Ogen, Jivaro. Persian Melons: Try mail-order seed companies.

Burpee Hybrid II Slicing Cuke

Early Pride Hybrid Slicing Cuke

Pickalot Hybrid Pickling Cuke

Crème de la Crème Melon

Supersun Hybrid Cantaloupe

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